With all the preparations done, clothing and equipment gathered, and most importantly, the kids' school year finished, we set out from Phoenix on May 12th for Kathmandu. Of necessity, we would be trekking at the tail end of the tourist season, hopefully just beating out the crowds and the monsoon.
In high spirits just before leaving home
Kathmandu
We arrived in Kathmandu in the late evening of May 14th. The airport has a small town feel and we found that this description is appropriate for the capital city itself. We were soon settled into the Retreat Serviced Apartments where we would stay until our departure for Lukla on May 16th. The property is located close to the Swayambhunath temple.
Swayambhunath Temple - check out that Jacaranda!
A view of Kathmandu from our apartment
We spent most of the 15th in Thamel, the trekking district of Kathmandu, tying up details with Bikram Thapa of Summit Treks and Adventure, whom I had engaged to help us with porters, permits, and flight reservations. It's no understatement to say that we would not have been able to do the trek without his advice and service.
With Bikram Thapa
In Thamel
Of course, I couldn't resist wandering in here ....!
Lukla
Lukla is a one-street, zero-stoplight town at about 9300'. It is connected to the world by what is described as one of the most dangerous airports in the world. Indeed there was a crash at the airport just a few days before we were to fly out in which a pilot lost his life.
The only reason to go there is that it is the most convenient and traditional start and end point of the EBC trail. The airport is served by small, twin engine planes that fly in from Kathmandu - weather permitting. In the days ahead we were to become painfully acquainted with that caveat.
Checking in at KTM - there were flight delays at the very outset, apparently due to the airline having to accommodate the previous days' passengers who had cancellations due to bad weather.
Wikipedia says that the runway at Lukla airport is 527m long - in practice it looks much shorter. The runway itself ends in a cliff at one end and a wall at the other. With a steep ramp (upslope while landing and downslope on takeoff) it very much resembles an aircraft carrier.
Runway at Lukla airport
You can find lots of videos of takeoffs and landings but here's one of our own.
Here's what a landing looks like from inside the plane.
Arrived in Lukla - let's hit the trail!
We were met at Lukla airport by Tashi Sherpa; whom Bikram had contacted to arrange the porters. The porters turned out to be two young relatives of Tashi. Mingma, a reserved, mature young man, had just finished high school in Kathmandu, while Pemba was a more outgoing young lad who had just finished 10th grade. They both spoke pretty good English and we immediately felt comfortable in their company. Tashi is a full-time monk at the monastery in Lukla and, incidentally, is an Everest summiteer.
A cup of tea before hitting the trail From the Left - Tashi, Mingma, and Pemba
Without much further ado, we started the trek. Mingma had already taken charge of our itinerary, telling me quietly that we would be attempting to reach Monjo - a good 3 hours ahead of my planned target of Phakding. Having read about the benefits of reaching Monjo on the first day itself, I agreed. We would soon realize that Mingma was quite the veteran of this route and that his suggestions were always spot on.
Lukla is like a mini Thamel with shops selling all the things a trekker would need before (but also after!!) the trip.
In Lukla
Well, you get the picture!
At the Pasang Lhamo Memorial Gate - she was the first Nepali woman to summit Everest. This is the end of Lukla and the start of the trail proper.
I'm so glad you shared your personal video of the airport. Whats more Dangerous landing or taking off? My guess would be landing but really don't know.
Everest Base Camp Finally the day was here. We had brought out our fancy, customized T-shirts, that Latha had so painstakingly made. Of course, they were the last piece of clean clothing at this point! The trail to EBC from Gorak Shep is relatively easy, just a few climbs over the moraines, and it only took about two hours to get there. The weather was good but not perfect - in hindsight it had been an excellent decision to push on to Kala Pathar the previous day. Heading off to EBC from Gorak Shep which is in the distance. Mingma was getting cell-phone coverage even here! Although the climbing season was in full swing, we saw a number of yak trains returning with gear. Perhaps the expeditions had started to send back non-essential stuff. We saw several yak trains on this day EBC is spread out over a large portion of the Khumbu glacier. And just like that we were there. Of course, EBC (or the end of it we walked into) is marked by a huge tangle of prayer...
The long way home Gokyo to Mongla The route out from Gokyo follows the moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier for a long time; passing a few lakes similar to the one at Gokyo. Cho Oyu (8188m) occupies the rear view mirror but the weather didn't cooperate too well. On the trail back from Gokyo. It passes by a series of lakes. Cho Oyu (8188m) The trail then passes through beautiful alpine meadows via the villages of Phanga, Machermo and Dhole. Frustratingly, it descends into each village that is set in a valley and then climbs out again. Machermo village. The trail drops into each village and back up again on the far side. We finally stopped in Dhole for lunch. Indeed, this was our original destination when we left Gokyo but since we were making good time, Mingma decided that we should head on to Mongla. Little did we know that a brutal climb lay ahead. Indeed, our elaborate plan to avoid the climb back up from Phunki Tenga on the Bhote Kosi to Nam...
Pangboche to Dingboche Once the trail crosses Pangboche it heads above the tree line and the terrain becomes more desolate, windswept, and glacial. The trail follows the valley of the Imja Khola all the way to Dingboche. The Imja Khola originates in the Imja Tsho - a glacial lake that is at risk of flooding due to global warming. There were boards in most villages advising people on what to do in case of a GLOF - glacial lake outburst flood. Heading out of Pangboche along the valley of the Imja Khola. Lhotse in the background. A painting of the Guru Rinpoche along the trail First views of glacial moraines. The glaciers have long since retreated The trail splits in two at the confluence of the Imja Khola and the Chola Khola. One branch leads to Dingboche while the other leads to Pheriche. We could have chosen to go to either village for the night but Mingma suggested that we head to Dingboche since Pheriche is very windy. I had also read that Dingboche gets m...
I'm so glad you shared your personal video of the airport. Whats more Dangerous landing or taking off? My guess would be landing but really don't know.
ReplyDeleteThe city looks incredible too! How was the food?