Day 3

Acclimatization Day in Namche

As is the common practice, we had scheduled two nights in Namche Bazaar. Following the work-high-sleep-low approach to acclimatization, we had planned a hike on Day 3. There are of course several hikes one can do around Namche ranging from a short stroll to a whole-day strenuous trek. A common hike is to get up to the village of Khumjung which sits up on the ridge above Namche.

The hike began by climbing the steep steps above our lodge to reach Chorkhung at which point the trail to Khumjung splits from the trail to Tengboche that we would take on Day 4. 

Climbing up to Chorkhung. We were quickly discovering that our upslope gait was no more than a labored crawl

Kusum Kangaru (6367m) from Chorkhung. It dominates the skyline on the south east of Namche.

A peak along the Kongde ridge

Khumbi Yui Lha which rises above Khumjung, north of Namche. Everyone was trying to catch their breath!

The climb from Chorkhung is quite steep with stunning views of Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, and Kangtega peaks towards the south. The trail leads up to an airstrip at Syangboche which was supposed to be used to fly in visitors to the famous Everest View Hotel which is nearby. The hotel apparently offers piped oxygen into the rooms to prevent mountain sickness. However, there are no planes that fly up here anymore. Needless to say, we were struggling for air in a few places so imagine our chagrin when we came upon a bunch of school children, all neatly dressed in blue and white, trudging up the trail to school in Khumjung, perhaps discussing the latest schoolyard gossip. They were headed to the Edmund Hillary school in Khumjung. There were even a few Sherpa women carrying the young 'uns on their backs. Imagine doing this every day!

Off to school in Khumjung. Namche is far below where the kids are.

Thamserku (6608m)

The trail climbs above the airstrip at Syangboche to the Everest Sherpa Resort. Just behind the resort, unbeknownst to us, was a viewpoint from where we got our first view of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and yes Everest! Needless to say we were completely thrilled and were ready to declare the trip a success!

First views of Everest! From the Left: Tabuche, Everest (left leaning peak just left of center), Lhotse
and Lhotse Shaar (center, both above 8000m), and Ama Dablam.

Everest on the left, Lhotse and Lhotse Shaar in the center.

Of course, we had to take these touristy shots! Pemba didn't think much of it all ....

In my opinion, Ama Dablam (6812m) is the most beautiful peak in the Khumbu.

It dominated the skyline on most days. A lot more about Ama Dablam to come later.

The trail eventually led to the Everest View Hotel, a rather posh property built, presumably, for wealthy Japanese visitors.

At the Everest View hotel just above Khumjung.

The hotel itself seemed unoccupied  but the deck was pretty busy. And my, what a view there was from that deck - absolutely stupendous. Tabuche, Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and Kusum Kangaru were all visible and fortunately, the weather cooperated long enough for us to enjoy them. I wish my photos could do justice to the grandeur....

Enjoying a cup of tea on the deck of the Everest View Hotel

From the hotel, we headed on to Khumjung which is supposed to be the biggest village in the Khumbu. It is the location of the Sir Edmund Hillary school and a gompa.

A view of Khumjung. Most buildings in the region have green or blue roofs. Red is reserved for the gompa. 

Ama Dablam

The Edmund Hillary School in Khumjung

He's the man in these parts. He did a lot for the upliftment of the Sherpa community.

A chorten with the 'seeing eye'

On the school grounds. They have teachers' accommodation, computer and art classrooms, and of course, a soccer field.

We continued on a loop back to Syangboche and then Namche passing what is apparently the longest mani wall in the Khumbu.

A long mani wall leads away from the school. Every stone tablet is carved with mantras.

On the hill between Khumjung and Syangboche a chorten erected in memory of some fallen rescuers.

These things were everywhere ...

Mingma and Pemba trying out some bouldering on the way back.

On this day it looked like they needed some 'daal-bhat power'!

A bird's eye view of Namche Bazaar

We were back in Sakura lodge by lunch and spent the remainder of the afternoon faithfully observing a rest day. Having already seen the next day's route from the viewpoint we were quite confident that it would be a light day of hiking. Of course, nothing in this area is quite that easy....