Day 2

June 10, 2017

Monjo to Namche Bazaar

At just under 11,300' Namche Bazaar is the first major destination on the EBC trek. Typically, trekkers will spend two nights at Namche on the way up to aid with the acclimatization process. The climb from Monjo (actually just after Jorsale) to Namche is steep and unremitting. Apart from trekkers there are always a number of porters, mule, and dzo (yak + cattle hybrid) trains hauling all manner of supplies to Namche, which as the name suggests, is a major trading hub in the Khumbu.

At the Sagarmatha Park Entrance station just above Monjo.

We had to show our permits here and pay the park fee.

Lonely Planet says that when you pass through the kani at the Sagarmatha Park entrance, you are entering a 'baeyul' or hidden land. In retrospect this does seem accurate. Once you're past this point, you quickly leave the river valley behind and enter a world of high mountains, snow-capped peaks and glaciers.

The kani at the Sagarmatha Park entrance. The trail drops to the river

soon after this and crosses it to reach Jorsale.

The pretty village of Jorsale. It is the last settlement before Namche Bazaar.

Along the Dudh Kosi river just after Jorsale. Check out the two suspension bridges floating above.

The upper bridge is now is use and crosses over to the spur in the middle.

The trail to Namche Bazaar goes right up that spur.

There are two suspension bridges floating high above the Dudh Kosi river, the higher of which is currently in use. To stand on that bridge is an awesome experience with strong winds and fluttering prayer flags. Getting to that bridge is not fun! It's a steep climb to get to it and an even steeper one thereafter to Namche.

Made it to the bridge!

Looking back downstream

After this there was nothing to do but grind our way up the steep slope to Namche. Every time we wanted to feel sorry for ourselves, a porter would lumber along carrying 60 kgs of load! They are mostly from non-Sherpa communities in Nepal and in Mingma's words - they are very strong. In fact, we even saw porters carrying 80 kgs. Puts things in perspective. Aside from cell phones and transistor radios, I suspect this form of labor has continued unchanged for a hundred years.

Taking a break ...

At the checkpost just outside Namche.

At the entrance to Namche Bazaar. It is set in a steep valley.

A water powered prayer wheel.

It appears that The North Face is the preferred brand in the Khumbu and

you can find anything you want with the logo on it :-) Remember that everything

needed to build the store and stock it was man-packed.

Namche is the biggest village in the Khumbu and a big trading post. It has shops like Thamel in Kathmandu selling trekking gear and souvenirs. There are also sports bars with 'live action' on flat screen TVs and bakeries selling apple pie and Lavazza coffee.

Supposedly the highest Irish Pub in the world!

No budget shopping here!

We stayed in the very comfortable Sakura lodge. Climbing the steep steps that led to it left us quite breathless. We were already feeling the altitude and were looking forward to the rest day. Little did we know what Mingma had planned for us!

At the lodge we were beginning to understand the dynamic that exists between the porters and the lodge owners. Clearly, by bringing customers to the lodge the porters were giving them business. In return they were looked after very well with free meals, showers, etc. In general, the rooms at the lodges were relatively cheap at NPR 200-500. The food is where the lodge made their money with strict requirements that you eat at the lodge you stayed in.

That afternoon we walked up to the Namche Gompa.