Day 13, 14 & 15

The long way home

Gokyo to Mongla

The route out from Gokyo follows the moraine of the Ngozumpa glacier for a long time; passing a few lakes similar to the one at Gokyo. Cho Oyu (8188m) occupies the rear view mirror but the weather didn't cooperate too well.

On the trail back from Gokyo. It passes by a series of lakes.

Cho Oyu (8188m)

The trail then passes through beautiful alpine meadows via the villages of Phanga, Machermo and Dhole. Frustratingly, it descends into each village that is set in a valley and then climbs out again.

Machermo village. The trail drops into each village and back up again on the far side. 

We finally stopped in Dhole for lunch. Indeed, this was our original destination when we left Gokyo but since we were making good time, Mingma decided that we should head on to Mongla. Little did we know that a brutal climb lay ahead. Indeed, our elaborate plan to avoid the climb back up from Phunki Tenga on the Bhote Kosi to Namche Bazaar was completely overthrown. The climb to Mongla is far bigger!

Finally back among trees again. On the trail below Dhole.

We checked into the Bouddha lodge at Mongla for the night. As the name suggests, Mongla is a pass and is approximately level with Khumjung. Indeed the Everest View Hotel was clearly visible. A short while after we checked in, Sarah and Franci walked in as well. The first words Franci said were "We're not stalking you!". We would bump into them again in Lukla two days later.

Thamserku from Mongla

While the lodge was still pretty basic, we felt far more comfortable. The intense cold was gone, the altitude was lower, and hey, we were going home!

Mongla to Monjo

The trail from Mongla first descends to Kengjoma to meet the main EBC trail and then proceeds to Namche Bazaar.

The trail from Mongla. The Everest View Hotel is at the top of the forested ridge on the right.

Monjo lies in the valley in the distance.

Earthquake damage to the chorten outside the Bouddha Lodge in Mongla

The valley of the Bhote Kosi from Mongla. Tengboche is on the ridge to the left of the river.

So much for trying to avoid the climb up from the river!

Rejoining the main EBC trail at Kenjoma. On the way out we had taken the trail to Tengboche.

After a quick stop in Namche Bazaar, we headed back down the trail to Monjo.

At the suspension bridge below Namche.

A group of trekkers beating a hasty retreat because a mule train had entered at the other end!

We were in Monjo by lunch time and we headed straight back to Mrs Doma's Monjo Guest house. We were looking forward to those solar showers now!

There were elections coming up in that area and there was a fair bit of campaigning going on. Indeed, it appeared that a whole group of party workers descended on the lodge that evening.

Ballot boxes being transported across the region. We even saw them being unloaded from the planes at Lukla.

Monjo to Lukla

Finally, it was the last day of our trek. We had reasonably good weather and the walk back to Lukla, despite the climb, was quite pleasant. Mingma and Pemba were stopping all along the way to chat with friends.

On the way back to Lukla

Looking over the Dudh Kosi river

Pretty villages along the trail

Back at the Pasang Lhamo gate in Lukla. The trek was over.

We were finally back in Lukla around lunch time, exchanging high fives that the trek was over. We had done everything we had set out to do, maintained good health, and thankfully, been blessed with good weather exactly when we needed it. In no small part, Mingma and Pemba had made it all possible. We had got to know them well and the girls had become good friends with them.

We headed into the Lukla Lodge, thrilled that there was free wifi and electrical outlets in every room. Just as we had put down our bags, Mingma got a call from Tashi Sherpa that we should head out to the Sunny Garden Lodge. This was the beginning of a difficult few days in Lukla. It seemed that our run of good luck had reached the end.